Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Dja

Jean Luc "Djalòki" Dessables

My last interview on this visit to Haiti was with Jean Luc (Dja) Dessables – a man I've respected ever since I first met him when I was bringing groups of people to experience Haiti. He has always been a “big picture” kind of guy, so I knew he would be able to give me some perspective on what is going on in Haiti, after the earthquake. I wasn't disappointed. He provided both perspective and a challenge.

Since the earthquake on January 12, Dja has been in the midst of the immediate response to the overwhelming needs of the people. The 1st full month was given over to helping to create the “Tent Cities” we have all heard about. He joined with others to provide tents, food, hygiene, medical care, water filters, lights, social and psychological support, help with children, condoms, and whatever else was most needed to sustain life.

Once the Tent Camps were established, Dja and others in the Haiti Response Coalition (made up of NGO's), worked to build the capacity for each camp to govern themselves, to select representatives, to plan the distribution of food and other needed supplies, to assure justice, order and calm. The primary focus was on the most vulnerable (women and children).

He acknowledged that there have been problems with violence, and that the police force was not up to the task of maintaining order. He observed that the police force hasn't been adequately trained, and at times has insisted they could do nothing about the people (men) who attacked the most vulnerable.

In one camp the women came together and realized they knew the men who were causing problems. They went to the police and said they could capture the men and hold them until the police could come to arrest them. The police responded by saying they couldn't do that. The women would have to bring the men they captured to the police station. Now, the women have no transportation, or ways to keep the persons constrained against their will. Thankfully the police are now beginning to respond to the needs identified by the women.

Dja also noted that many of the problems they have encountered since the earthquake were here before. People, communities and society were already “cracked” and partly dysfunctional before the earthquake. The earthquake was a trigger, but not the real reason of the massive destruction: the main reason comes from the dysfunction of the society, created by people with inner wounds, trauma and limitations. This recent disaster came on top of a pile of previous disasters accumulated by the Haitian people throughout history, be they natural, social, political, racial, economical, psychological, or spiritual.

The rebuilding of houses, offices, churches and shops without rebuilding the long time wounded, traumatized and limited people and society will create the same massive destruction when the next “natural” disaster hits Haiti.

Dja startled me when he said the workers with the International Aid Organizations are living on ships anchored in the harbor, and are therefore at least one step removed from the people they are here to help. And all aid workers must return to the ships by 6 pm. While it is possible to justify the need to do this for security concerns and the coordination of efforts, this practice also reinforces the unequal power relationship between Haiti and the major nations of the world.

Dja also noted that humanity (not just Haiti) is living through critical times. Decisions must be made to either allow the further destruction of the human world, or to change to create a new way of being and dwelling on earth. The modern western civilization has failed – especially with the role that money plays in our lives. We need to create a new heart connection between the peoples of the world, and allow compassion to bring us together as one people.

Helia

Helia's story

With tears flowing down my cheeks, I sat in stunned silence as Helia Lajeunesse shared what happened to her and her family during and since the earthquake. Helia is no stranger to violence. She encountered it as a restivick child growing up as a virtual slave. To learn about that part of her life story, check out http://www.freetheslaves.net/Page.aspx?pid=368 She had already suffered more violence than any person should ever have to endure. And then it was January 12th – the day life changed forever for Haiti.

She was supposed to be in a meeting, but decided to stay home, and was sitting in a chair in her home when the earth began to shake. The intensity of the shaking threw her out of her house, as the house fell down. Her 6 year old son, Rubens, was still in the house, and said, “Mommy, I'm here.” Helia couldn't rescue him. Everyone was crying, running, trying to get away. Nobody could help each other. My house and everything in it was destroyed.

She ran to the school to see what happened. Almost crushed by two cars that slammed together. Children were dying at the school. But she was able to take her children away while the earth was still shaking.

She fled to St. Bernadette Catholic Church. “Many people fled there to find a safe place to live. When it rained, it was very bad, because we didn't have anything to put on the ground. And while there a lot of guys came to do violence and rape the women and girls. My 4 year old granddaughter was raped (and her granddaughter was now sitting next to her as she told her story). She knows everything that happened to her and talks about it.”

Helia's sister was selling downtown at the time of the earthquake. She died. She had two children, and Helia is now taking care of them. For safety, she sent the children to the countryside, to Jeremie.

To help her survive, David Diggs of Beyond Borders, sent her a tent to live in. It isn't large enough for the seven people living with her to stay inside, so she is also having to use a tarp to provide some shelter, especially from the rains. But men come and take their knife and cut the tarp open. And they come in to do violence (rape) to the women.

Helia said, “There is no effort to stop the rapes and other violence against women and children. We tell the police, but they say, 'It is not my thing. Go tell President Preval.'”

Life is very hard for Helia … and she concluded her statement by saying she has considered suicide. And she may have done that, except for her work to end the violence against women, and the restivak children.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

A family in Tent City

Galeine Darius and her family

We have all heard about the Tent Cities that have sprouted up around PauP and throughout much of country. I've seen thousands of these tents clustered together in large open areas, many with blue tops. And I tell myself, at least the people have someplace to live until some new options are designed and constructed. Just how long that will take isn't clear at this point. Some suggest it may take several years to relocate everyone in the tent cities into more permanent housing.

I think about the situation of these people struggling to survive, attempting to keep their possessions (what little they may have after the earthquake destroyed their homes) safe and dry. And when the skies open up with heavy rain storms, I cannot wonder how it must be for the people trying to keep dry.

I've already told one story about Richard Pierre and how he doesn't feel safe in his tent. Not only is it hot under the bright Haitian sun, and like a sauna after a heavy rain, there is no way to safeguard his few possessions when he goes out to get food or attempts to find work.

But I've recently been introduced to another family living in one of the many tents in PauP. I will post their photo on this blog. Alex told me something of their story.

Gileine Darius is the aunt of one of Alex's classmates in medical school. She is the mother of 5 children. And until the earthquake happened, she was supporting her family by working in the lottery. Not only did the earthquake destroy her home, it also destroyed the building that housed the lottery where she worked. She lost her work and her only source of income. A sister living in England is able to send some money to help.

After the earthquake, Giliene and her 5 children spent two weeks living on the streets, without any shelter or source of food. Finally an international aid group gave her family a tent. At this point she doesn't know how long they will be in the tent, and she has no idea of where they will go. What food she has for her family comes from another international aid group.

Alex decided to go see how she and the family were doing. He felt helpless to respond to their need. While he didn't have much money, he gave them everything he had. But their situation continues to haunt him … and me.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Reparing road between PauP and Jacmel

A new Haitian Driver

Haitian Drivers' License

Today Nixon renewed my Haitian Drivers' License. He doesn't have that authority, of course. And my Oregon Drivers' License is legal here. But even with all of the legal formalities in place, driving in Haiti is not for the faint of heart.

Today Nixon drove Kim Montroll over to Jacmel to connect with some friends. He asked me to go along for company. And I wanted to get out of Port-au-Prince and experience how the earthquake has impacted other parts of the island. This trip worked out for all concerned.

The roads in Haiti were badly damaged by the earthquake. Rocks have fallen in the roadway. Hillsides are unstable and a threat to fall away, creating very hazardous conditions. And crews are out with shovels, wheelbarrows, trucks and backhoes clearing the way and making needed repairs.

I have driven in Haiti over the years, providing transportation for the groups we brought to the country. It has always been a challenge. Drivers in Haiti are better than average (in my experience). But they have a need to get ahead of the car in front, and the drivers are willing to take risks. Most of the time those risks pay off. Sometimes not.

The way to drive in Haiti is by adopting a psychological pathology, which therapist call “passive-aggressive.” Usually that isn't a very good way to identify yourself or for some one to call you. But when driving in Haiti, the term fits perfectly.

And it works this way. Most of the time you simply flow along with the traffic, allowing others to pass and ease their way into the line of cars ahead of you. You simply go with the flow. But there are moments when the traffic is gridlocked. And the only way to move ahead is to take the smallest of opening in the traffic to nose the front of your car ahead of the others trying to take that place. Otherwise you could be stranded in traffic for hours and hold up the people behind you.

So, today, Nixon asked me to get into the drivers seat of his car. That in and of itself is a vote of confidence and a sign of his trust of me. And along the way he took the above photo to prove to the world that I was actually driving his car in Haiti. That is enough proof that I now have renewed my Haitian Drivers' License. It must be renewed by frequent returns to Haiti.

And Nixon even offered me a job driving one of his cars. (just kidding) A relocation to Haiti is necessary.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Alex and me in TapTap

Alex

A helping hand

Here I sit on a private balcony in the home of John and Merline Engle, with a view of Petionville and Port-au-Prince below. From this vantage point, the cities below look tranquil and serene, especially at 6 am. Yesterday I decided to use the local transportation system to go down into Petionville to do some shopping. That local system is made up of individuals who own pickup trucks, on which they have installed benches on both sides of the bed, along with cab covers. These trucks are painted vivid colors and frequently have a name painted on the sides and front. They are called by the locals, TapTaps. Why? Because when you want to get off, you tap the window or top of the cab to alert the driver. The trip from Malik (the local stop) to the center of Petionville takes 30 minutes and costs 15 gourdes (about 45 cents).

It is about a 15 minute walk down the steep hill from John and Merline's to the TapTap stop. When vehicles come up to their home, the drivers engage their four wheel drive and shift into low gear. I am grateful that Alex (Merline's brother) was with me. I had asked to go with him on his way down to be sure that I knew how to catch the TapTap home. I began to slip on the way down, so he took my hand and provided stability so I wouldn't fall.

You all know that I do not do heat and humidity. Well, yesterday was intense with both. My goal for the trip was to pick up a newspaper from the US, like USA Today, and shop for some small craft items to purchase for Esther and friends back home. We soon discovered that most of the stores were closed in honor of June 3rd. It is a day of prayer for the dead: a national holiday. Masses were held in the streets, and we came across several with crowds as large as 2,000 gathered for prayers. It was an awesome experience.

The few shops that were open didn't have anything I wanted. Most of their earrings, necklaces and bracelets were made in China. When our shopping didn't produce anything for me to purchase, we decided to try to find a restaurant to get something cold to drink. They were also closed. So we went into a grocery store and purchased some cold drinks, and then found along the way a shady place to sit and enjoy our cool drinks.

By this time I was exhausted, and needed to head back to John and Merline's. Alex was gracious enough to take me to the TapTap stand, find a place for me to sit, talk to the driver to let him know where I was heading, and then wait around until we departed. Once back at Malik, I paid the driver the 15 gourdes, and started the steep climb back up the hill. With considerable effort, I made it back to the house, with sweat flowing from every pore in my body.

I came away from this experience with admiration for the Haitian people. They are a strong and resilient people. It is one indication of how Haitians will survive even this latest hardship. They will need our support and help, just like Alex helped me by holding my hand on our way down the steep incline. But with our help, they will emerge even stronger.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Wings of Hope

Another Miracle

Yesterday I visited Wings of Hope, one of the homes that Brother Michael and St. Joseph's established for children with disabilities. Several years ago, when French missionaries announced they were leaving Haiti and needed to find care for the disabled children under their supervision, Michael took some of the older boys from St. Joseph's to choose a child to bring home and care for. But the boys surprised Michael when they chose to adopt all the children, reminding him that he had taught them that with God, all things are possible.

Wings of Hope thrived. It was recently rebuilt and expanded to include a day school for disabled community children, along with guest facilities. It was largely staffed by graduates of St. Joseph's.

But when the earthquake happened, the buildings housing Wings of Hope were destroyed. Not a single child was injured or killed. Those currently working to clear the land so that new buildings can be constructed, using earthquake resistant building materials, said that they thought it was another miracle that all of the children in the home are alive and well.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Alexis, Magarette, Jean, Eugene and Harry

 
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Harry (Ari) Nicolas

 
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Kore Pwodiksyon Lokal

The highlight of today was a visit with Harry (Ari) Nicolas. I first met Ari 20 years ago. He, Carla and Dja used to provide orientations for the Trip of Perspective groups we brought to Haiti. He always provided a different way of seeing what is going on in Haiti … so I knew I couldn't go home without an opportunity to sit at his feet and learn from his wise and reasoned teaching.

Today Ari is the Director of a very interesting program, called Kore Pwodiksyon Lokal (Support Local Production). I started the conversation asking, “What is needed now?”

Ari observed that millions of dollars are flowing into Haiti in response to the earthquake. But even all that money is worth nothing without a vision. Haiti, he continued, is facing its history. This moment is more important than the revolution we faced with our colonial masters. Today's enemy is in our heads, and this enemy is much harder to fight against.

Haiti is at a crossroads. The world is watching, and we are watching the world. It is just 4 months since the quake, and we realize that the decision to change Haiti is in the hands of the Haitians. All Haitians understand this truth, but they lack the training to carry it out. We lack the education to know how to make the needed changes. We need education, not food.

Many Haitians have a vision of what this country needs now, but don't believe they have the capability to carry it out. So, we need to empower ordinary Haitians, to encourage them to think outside of the box, and to come together in a community effort to be the change we need. We cannot wait for or look to the government to do this for us.

Kore Pwodiksyon Lokal (KPL) has created a series of TV commercials that address these issues, pointing to the need for a community response. The local TV stations are so impressed with the quality of the TV commericals that KPL has produced, that they are now showing them free of charge. They have become very popular. You can see for yourself their positive message, and the vision for the future of Haiti by clicking on the following http://www.youtube.com/user/korepwodiksyonlokal#p/a/u/0/npvx4F9JZyo

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

The water flows

 
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The Rainy Season

I now understand why Haitians call this their “rainy season”. Yesterday after meeting with Anne Hastings and Roger Desir, Nixon and I were headed back up the hill to Pétionville when it began to rain. Now, I’ve been in rain before. After all, I do live in Oregon where we have a lot of rain. But not like this rain.

The curb-side gutters soon filled with water rushing down the hill, pushing all of the debris along. When the water encountered cars parked along the road way, the water shot up as if it were a geyser.

Children were coming home from school. Not only were they drenched to the skin with water, they were seeking to cross streets through the rushing torrents of water. At one point, the rush of water was so great, that the entire roadway became a 40 foot wide stream.

Parents rightfully concerned about their children walking home in this rain, decided to drive to pick them up. While it is something I would have done as well, the addition of cars on the streets only made the traffic more of a nightmare. Talk about grid-lock! We were caught at one corner for over 30 minute before the traffic began to inch along.

As trying as this was for those of us navigating our way through the traffic, it was that much more difficult for the people walking along or trying to sell their wares along the streets. At one particularly slow intersection, Nixon pointed out his mother (Madamn Blanc) tending her stall. This is how she make her living and supports her family.

I couldn’t get out of my mind how this rain must be for the thousands of Haitians still living in the many tent cities around Port-au-Prince. There is no way they could possibly keep this amount of water out of their tents or their possessions dry.